There’s nothing quite like finishing a long day on the road with a comforting, hot shower in your RV. But when that hot water suddenly disappears, frustration sets in fast.
I’ve been in the RV industry for over a decade, and one of the most common calls I get is about no hot water—or water that’s lukewarm at best. It’s surprising how many things can go wrong, from worn-out parts to improper setup, but the good news is that many of these problems have straightforward solutions.
In this post, I’ll share the typical reasons behind the lack of hot water in your RV and guide you through upgrading your system with tried-and-true products that solve these issues.
Whether you’re dealing with an old water heater on the fritz or simply want to enhance your RV’s comfort, these fixes will get your showers back to blissful warmth.
I remember one customer—midway through a summer trip—who was ready to throw in the towel after battling cold water every morning. After diagnosing a faulty heating element and recommending a switch to a tankless system, he couldn’t believe the difference. Hot water on demand, no worries, and plenty of savings on propane.
If that sounds appealing, keep reading.
One of the classic headaches of RV ownership is waiting ages for water to heat up or watching the hot water run out before your shower is finished. If you’ve got a traditional tank water heater, you’re limited by its capacity—usually about 6 gallons in RVs. For a solo traveler, that might be enough, but if you have multiple people or take longer showers, you’ll run cold fast. Tight water conservation can help, but it’s not always practical.
Many RV owners have the standard six-gallon Dometic 94001SP Gas Electric Water Heater. It’s a reliable and well-built unit with flexible power options—both gas and electric. However, its compact size means it’s just not designed for heavy use without carefully rationing your hot water. The wait times after exhausting your tank can be frustrating, especially when you’re camped off-grid with limited resources.
I recall an RV club event where multiple families shared their experiences. One family explained how their morning routine felt rushed because the hot water simply ran out too soon. The Dometic 94001SP did its job but only for a short window. For anyone with a busier camper or multiple people, this limitation hampers enjoyment rather than enhances it.
The ideal solution for this bottleneck is switching from a tank-style system to a tankless water heater like the Girard Tankless RV Water Heater (42,000 BTU). Because it heats water directly on demand, there’s no waiting for a tank to refill and reheat. You simply turn on your faucet or shower, and the hot water flows immediately, uninterrupted until you turn it off.
The Girard's high BTU rating (42,000) means it heats water almost instantly, providing consistent temperature even during heavy use. Plus, because there’s no stored water, you save precious space—a welcome advantage in any RV.
I once upgraded a family’s rig from a 6-gallon Dometic to the Girard after they had complained of cold morning showers. On their next trip, they reported back that they had nearly doubled their shower time and never worried about running cold. They even saved on propane because the Girard only heats water as needed rather than maintaining a hot tank all day.
If you’re sticking with a tank system for now, remember that wasteful water uses can shorten your hot water availability. Installing low-flow showerheads and faucets can make a noticeable difference by stretching each gallon.
For example, I helped a couple retrofit their bathrooms with a simple low-flow showerhead that reduced water use by nearly 40%, extending their hot water supply substantially without compromising comfort.
Also, monitoring your water pressure and flow rates helps reduce unnecessary water waste. High water pressure leads to faster water flow, which thins out your hot water more quickly. Using a pressure regulator and flow restrictors gives better control.
Consider insulating your tank and pipes if you typically camp in colder climates or during shoulder seasons. Even a simple foam wrap or reflective insulation blanket can reduce heat loss, keeping your water hotter longer and reducing energy usage. Foam pipe insulation is inexpensive and easy to install.
One RVer from Colorado shared how adding insulation to their tank and lines resulted in noticeably hotter water after an hour of no use, even when parked at 30°F overnight.
Winter RVing comes with a unique set of challenges, and a frozen water heater is one of the most frustrating—and costly. If your RV sits overnight in temperatures below freezing, your stock water heater and your pipes can easily freeze. This leads to cracked tanks or broken plumbing, which may require expensive repairs.
Many standard RV water heaters lack freeze protection or sufficient insulation. They’re simply not designed for extended exposure to freezing temps. That’s why winter RV enthusiasts often upgrade or retrofit their systems with freeze-resistant units.
The Camco Hybrid Heat Water Heaters are an excellent option for cold weather travelers. These heaters combine electric and propane heating elements and include freeze protection features that actively maintain warmth in the tank and pipes.
Their design incorporates insulated tanks and a thermostat-controlled heating element, preventing ice formation without continuous propane use. This means you don’t have to worry about waking up to frozen water lines after a cold night.
One snowbird customer in northern Minnesota shared how the Camco heater saved her season after a particularly bitter cold snap. She recounted waking up to minus 15°F temperatures and still having hot water within seconds of turning on her faucet.
Other RVers heading to high-altitude campgrounds or northern parks have switched to these hybrid heaters for peace of mind. The Camco system also has a relatively easy installation process, fitting many existing RV water heater footprints, which minimizes upfront cost and labor.
Even with freeze-resistant systems, routine winterization practices are essential. This includes draining the water heater completely and bypassing the unit when using antifreeze solutions.
Many newer RVs include water heater bypass kits that make this simple, avoiding damage from antifreeze entering the heater. If your rig doesn’t have a bypass kit, it’s worth investing in one or installing it as part of your winter prep.
If you’re unsure about winterizing your system properly, professional service or detailed manuals are invaluable. A few dollars spent on prevention can save hundreds in repairs. I can’t overstate this enough—RVers who skip winterization or do it incorrectly often face cracked tanks and failed water heaters in spring.
One client told me she learned this lesson the hard way after skipping winterization on her old system and spending over $1,000 on repairs and replacement parts.
Sometimes you upgrade your rig or add extra fixtures—like a second shower, outdoor shower, or larger sinks—and suddenly your water heater is underpowered. The problem isn’t just volume; your original heater simply can’t keep up with increased demand.
The Suburban SW10DEM Water Heater offers a solution for users needing more capacity without jumping to tankless models. With a 10-gallon capacity, it almost doubles the tank size of standard models, allowing longer showers and multiple users before running out.
What makes the Suburban stand out is its versatility. Like many classic RV water heaters, it offers both gas and electric heating modes, so you can switch according to availability or preference. I’ve recommended this heater often for families or couples upgrading from six-gallon tanks, as it strikes a balance of extra capacity and manageable size.
For those prioritizing durability and long-term efficiency, the Valterra DGROXP Hot Rod XP Water Heater is a noteworthy contender. Its unique patented internal rod constantly cleans the heat exchanger surface, preventing mineral buildup—one of the quiet efficiency killers in traditional systems.
Mineral deposits, especially in regions with hard water, can reduce heat transfer causing your heater to take longer and waste fuel or electricity. The Hot Rod XP’s design minimizes maintenance and keeps heating consistent over time.
One RV owner camping near the Southwest desert told me their water heater used to take well over 30 minutes to regain heat after a shower. After installing the Valterra Hot Rod XP, heating times dropped dramatically, and propane consumption was noticeably lower.
If you’re increasing your water demands, also look at your water storage and pump system. Having a larger tank without adequate matching on the water supply side can cause pressure drops and inconsistent temperatures.
Consider pairing a larger water heater with a high-performance water pump or even a water heater recirculation system to keep hot water flowing more efficiently. These upgrades add comfort, especially during cold days or in larger rigs.
Some RV owners prefer or require an all-electric water heater system. Whether you’re boondocking at well-equipped campgrounds or primarily plugging into shore power, an electric-only system can simplify fuel concerns and emissions.
The GE Electric Tankless Water Heater for RVs is a standout in this category. It provides instant hot water without storing any in a tank and runs solely on electricity, eliminating the need for propane.
This unit is compact and energy-efficient, perfect for smaller rigs or those aiming to reduce propane reliance. Unlike tank heaters, the GE Electric heats water only as needed, which can reduce electrical consumption when paired with thoughtful usage.
For point-of-use applications—small sinks or campervans with limited water demands—the GE 2.5 Gallon Electric Point of Use Water Heater is an excellent choice. Installed right near the faucet, it prevents long waits for hot water to travel through plumbing.
I installed one recently in a custom campervan build, and the owners appreciated the immediate warmth on chilly mornings while conserving power. This solution is especially great for rigs with solar systems that prioritize electric use.
Electrical capacity is a critical consideration. Many electric water heaters require a significant circuit—often 30-50 amps—and proper wiring. If your RV’s electrical panel or shore power hookup can’t handle the load, upgrading your electrical system or selecting a smaller point-of-use option may be necessary.
Before installation, consult with an electrician or RV technician to confirm that your wiring and breakers can safely handle the demand.
Electric water heaters also benefit from insulating hot water lines to conserve heat and reduce energy usage—especially during cooler weather. Heat loss along long runs of pipe can add up, so foam insulation or pipe sleeves are a smart addition.
Be mindful that in boondocking scenarios without shore power or generators, electric heaters can be limiting unless paired with substantial solar and battery storage.
Sometimes the culprit behind no or insufficient hot water isn’t the unit’s capacity but its age or condition. Mineral buildup inside tanks and on heating elements is a silent efficiency killer that sneaks up on RVers camping in hard water areas.
Over time, scale deposits coat the heating elements, reducing their ability to transfer heat. It makes your water heater work harder, use more fuel or electricity, and results in longer heating times or lukewarm water.
Many traditional water heaters, including the propane-powered Suburban SW10DEM and Valterra Hot Rod XP, come equipped with anode rods to slow corrosion and scale buildup. However, these parts require periodic inspection and replacement. Flushing your tank at least once per season is also vital to break up sediment.
I always advise my customers to mark their calendars for spring and fall flushing schedules. It keeps the tank healthier and avoids pricey repairs down the road.
If your water heater is older than 7-10 years or showing signs of persistent scaling, it may be time to consider replacement or an upgrade to a tankless system.
Tankless heaters like the Girard 42000 BTU or the GE Electric Tankless models offer a big advantage here: they don’t store water, so sediment buildup is not an issue. This means less maintenance and often a longer lifespan.
A couple I worked with in Arizona noticed their Suburban heater took longer to heat after a year camping near the Grand Canyon. They tried flushing the tank multiple times but never restored performance fully. Moving to a Girard tankless system was a game-changer.
Their hot water was reliable, consistent, and they saw substantial reductions in propane consumption. They also reported the unit freed up extra space in their cramped bathroom closet.
Upgrading your water heater is a great investment but can be costly. Before taking the plunge, it’s wise to troubleshoot and potentially fix your current system. Many issues have simple explanations that save money and hassle.
Here’s a detailed checklist based on my years in the field:
An empty propane tank or clogged lines are common causes of no hot water. Verify propane levels before assuming heater failure. Inspect hoses and valves for blockages or damage.
Sometimes insects or debris can clog vents or gas lines—especially in summer campsites with lots of nearby foliage. Using an insect repellent at vent openings or adding small wire mesh can prevent this.
For electric or hybrid models, a tripped breaker or loose wiring might interrupt power. Test breakers, check fuse panels, and visually inspect wiring for damage or corrosion.
Cold or damp environments can corrode connections, so cleaning terminals and applying contact cleaner often restores function. Reset breakers and correct wiring faults as necessary.
On gas units, the pilot light is the first thing to check. If it won’t stay lit, the thermocouple may be faulty, the pilot assembly dirty, or drafts from nearby vents affecting flame stability.
Cleaning the assembly or replacing the thermocouple is often a straightforward DIY task. For electronic ignition models, ensure battery levels and wiring are good.
Faulty igniters or control boards sometimes need professional repair or replacement. If you hear repeated clicking without ignition, this is a common sign.
Sometimes the simplest issue is a thermostat set too low or a thermostat gone bad. Adjust settings to a higher temperature and observe if water gets hotter.
If there’s no change, test the thermostat with a multimeter or consider replacing it. Inaccurate thermostat readings can cause heaters not to activate or shut off prematurely.
Sediment settling at the bottom of your tank impairs heat transfer. Draining and flushing the tank per manufacturer guidelines can improve performance significantly.
While this involves turning off power and water supply temporarily, it’s generally a DIY task and worth the effort. Use a garden hose and carefully drain the tank until clear water flows.
Perform this flushing at least once per season. It’s essential after extended storage or heavy use in hard water areas.
If you’ve ruled out basic fixes and your water heater still can’t keep up, it’s time to consider an upgrade. The choice depends on your usage pattern, power supply preferences, and RV size.
Upgrading often pays off in daily comfort, reduced energy costs, and fewer maintenance headaches.
If you plan to keep your rig for years and travel extensively, investing in modern tankless or hybrid heaters can improve your overall RV experience dramatically.
There’s no reason to accept chilly showers or limited hot water when better options exist. From classic gas-electric tanks like the Dometic 94001SP and Suburban SW10DEM, to innovative tankless heaters like the Girard 42000 BTU or GE Electric Tankless, RVers today have multiple routes to enjoy reliable hot water.
Think about your typical usage, power sources, and how often you camp off-grid when choosing the right system. Hybrid heaters like Camco’s protect you from freezing issues during colder months, while point-of-use electric heaters bring instant warmth to small spaces.
Don’t overlook routine maintenance. Flushing tanks, inspecting anode rods, and checking pilot lights can prolong your water heater’s lifespan and maintain optimal performance. However, when your current heater no longer meets your needs, remember that upgrades are an investment in daily comfort and convenience.
With the right heater, you’ll never have to skip that hot shower again—no matter where the road leads.
Q: How long does it typically take for an RV water heater to heat water?
A: Traditional tank water heaters usually take 20-30 minutes to fully heat the water after a refill. Tankless models, like the Girard, provide near-instant hot water on demand, significantly reducing wait times.
Q: Can I use propane and electric at the same time on my RV water heater?
A: Most gas-electric combination water heaters, such as the Dometic 94001SP or Suburban SW10DEM, allow you to select either propane or electric heating, but they don’t operate both simultaneously.
Q: Are tankless water heaters reliable for RV use?
A: Yes. Tankless heaters like the Girard or GE Electric models are specifically designed for RVs. They offer quick heating, a smaller footprint, and energy savings. Proper installation and routine maintenance ensure the best performance and long lifespan.
Q: What causes an RV water heater pilot light to keep going out?
A: Common causes include a dirty pilot assembly, faulty thermocouple, gas supply interruptions, or wind drafts. Regular cleaning and timely replacement of faulty parts typically resolve issues.
Q: How do I winterize my RV water heater to prevent freezing damage?
A: Drain the water heater completely and use bypass valves when adding RV antifreeze. For cold-weather use, upgraded heaters like the Camco Hybrid Heat include active freeze protection features to keep components warm even in low temperatures.
Q: Is it easy to install a tankless water heater in an RV?
A: Installation varies in complexity but generally requires moderate plumbing and electrical skills. Because improper installation can affect performance and safety, many RVers opt for professional installation or consult detailed guides.
Q: Can I upgrade an existing propane water heater to an electric tankless system?
A: Yes. However, electric tankless systems require sufficient electrical capacity—often a dedicated high-amperage circuit—and compatible wiring. Consult an electrician or RV technician before upgrading to ensure your power system supports the new water heater.
Q: How often should I flush my RV water heater?
A: It’s best practice to flush your water heater at least once every six months to prevent sediment buildup. If you camp in areas with hard water, more frequent flushing may be necessary.
I’m Bill Rowell, the founder of RVupgrades.com. In 2002, I launched the business to help fellow RV enthusiasts find unique and hard-to-find products. Over the years, it’s grown to offer more than 15,000 items, with a warehouse in Eastlake, Ohio. Having owned and repaired nearly every type of RV, I bring over two decades of hands-on experience to the table. For me, this isn’t just a business – it’s a passion and a way of life that I love sharing with the RV community.
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