Your RV water heater tank is under constant chemical attack from the minerals and dissolved oxygen in your water supply. This aluminum anode rod is the single most cost-effective line of defense you have -- it sacrifices itself so your tank doesn't. Designed specifically for Suburban and Mor-Flo RV water heaters, the Camco 11563 drops in using the existing 3/4" NPT drain plug port. No special tools, no modifications, no excuses for skipping this annual maintenance item.
Galvanic corrosion is a slow, invisible process that eats steel water heater tanks from the inside out. Dissolved minerals and electrochemical reactions in hot water create an environment that attacks bare metal continuously. An anode rod interrupts that process by providing a more reactive metal -- aluminum in this case -- that draws corrosive activity away from the tank walls and the heating element.
The Camco 11563 is a direct-fit replacement for the factory anode rod found in Suburban and Mor-Flo RV water heaters. When you pull the plastic drain plug from your heater's lower access port, this rod threads right in using the same 3/4" NPT fitting. It measures 9.5" long and 5/8" in diameter, matching the OEM specification for these heater families.
Aluminum rod attracts electrochemical corrosion activity away from your steel tank and heating components, extending heater service life significantly.
9.5" length and 5/8" diameter match factory specs for Suburban and Mor-Flo RV water heaters. Threads in via the existing 3/4" NPT drain port -- no drilling or modification needed.
Remove the plastic drain plug, drain the tank slightly, and thread in the new rod with a 1-1/16" socket. The whole job typically takes under 15 minutes.
Manufactured domestically under Camco's quality standards. Backed by a limited 1-year manufacturer warranty.
Anode rods operate on a straightforward electrochemical principle. When two different metals are submerged in an electrolyte (your hot water), the more reactive metal corrodes first. Aluminum is more reactive than the steel in your tank, so the rod degrades while the tank walls are protected. Over time the rod is consumed -- that is proof it is doing its job. When the rod is depleted, protection stops and the tank becomes the sacrificial metal.
Camco and most RV water heater manufacturers recommend inspecting your anode rod every 3 months or at the start of each camping season -- whichever comes first. If you use your rig year-round or camp in areas with particularly corrosive water (high chlorine municipal supply, coastal humidity), increase inspection frequency.
What is the difference between an aluminum anode rod and a magnesium anode rod?
Both aluminum and magnesium anode rods are designed to protect RV water heaters from corrosion, but they perform a little differently depending on your water quality and maintenance preferences.
Aluminum anode rods are often recommended for RV owners who deal with hard water. They are more durable in mineral-rich water, resist breaking down as quickly, and generally last longer before needing replacement. Aluminum rods are a great choice if you want lower maintenance and fewer replacements over time.
Magnesium anode rods provide more active corrosion protection because magnesium is more reactive than aluminum. This means they can offer stronger defense against rust and corrosion inside your Suburban or Mor-Flo water heater tank. However, in areas with very hard water, they may wear down faster and require more frequent replacement.
Installation Instructions
Turn the water heater gas regulator to OFF.
Let the tank cool, or open a hot water faucet inside the RV until the water runs cool.
Shut off the water supply.
Release pressure by opening a hot water faucet or the T&P valve.
Remove the water heater’s drain plug with an 11/16" socket (older models may use a square head plug).
Wrap Camco’s RV Anode Rod threads with 1½ turns of Teflon tape, in the same direction you will tighten.
Insert the anode rod and tighten until snug (do not overtighten — use only 7–8 ft-lbs of torque).
Turn the RV water supply back on. Open the hot water faucets inside until all air is flushed out, then close them. The tank should now be full.
Check the anode rod connection for leaks and tighten slightly if needed.